Varanasi - The End of the Road

Having seen all we could in Agra, we boarded a sleeper train for Varanasi fully expecting to get no sleep but very excited about the journey. Much to our surprise the beds were really comfortable, and after chatting to our travelling companion who shared our 4 bed compartment, we all managed to sleep soundly until the train arrived in Varanasi at the unearthly hour of 5.30am.

Emma updating her journal on the train.

Once we arrived at our hotel, right by the bank of the Ganges, and saw the early morning sun shining over the river, we were very glad that we were awake to see the beautiful sight.

Morning meditation by the Ganges.

Varanasi, a city built on the banks of the holy river Ganges, is considered the holiest of all holy cities in both Hinduism and Jainism. Along the banks of the Ganges there are over 80 ghats, or steps, and each has its own name and function. Some are well known as being popular bathing sights, or where many people wash laundry. There are also two cremation ghats, the largest of which is called Manikarnika Ghat, where people burn the bodies of loved ones on huge pyres. Some Hindus consider it particularly auspicious to die at Varanasi, so there are many people who move there specifically to die. Many also believe that if your body is burnt on the banks of the Ganges, you achieve “moksha”, or release from the cycle of life and death. Because of this, the burning ghats were very busy, and apparently ran throughout the night as demand was so high. Unlike other places in India that we’d seen there was far more emphasis on caste- depending on the caste of the family, there were different sites for the pyres, and the only people who handled the bodies were those of the very lowest caste, the “untouchables”.

Washing drying by the Ganges having been washed in the holy waters.

We went for many walks along the ghats as there was always something different happening – cricket matches, beautiful cows just sat by the riverside, buffalo rolling around in the mud, Brahmin priests teaching people how to perform various ceremonies, bathing, meditating, worshipping. All this took place while we were walking along, trying not to stand on anyone’s clean washing, and avoiding men attempting to get us to hire their boat, or to shake our hand only so they could charge money for a hand massage – such a chaotic and lively place!

Early morning bathing in the river.

We also took a couple of boat trips along the river - one as the sun was rising which was a great time as the ghats were full of people coming to take their early morning bathe, beginning the washing of the morning or mediatating. Seeing the river banks from a boat in the early morning light really was magical, and we learnt a lot from all the stories and tales that our boatman told us along the way.

The view from our boat as the first light of day appeared.

Every evening at Dashashwamedh Ghat a ceremony takes place called “ganga aarti”, in which a number of priests perform “agni puja” and offer dedications to the river Ganges and Lord Shiva. This involves the priests, all aged under 30, waving incense, a multi tiered candleholder holding 51 candles, and finally a huge bowl full of fire over the river and the crowd gathered on the ghat. During this, there is music and singing performed, as well as the ringing of many bells and several gongs adding to the clamour.

One of the priests performing agni puja.

We watched this once from the ghat itself, where we could see (and hear!) the ceremony up close, and once from a boat in the river. Being able to see the whole thing from a distance was incredible, and sitting on a boat in the Ganges, sipping chai that our boatman had insisted on buying for us as his guests, watching this traditional ceremony was an amazing experience.

The Ganga Aarti ceremony from our boat.

James trying his hand at rowing us back!

Our last night in Varanasi happened to be the first day of an important festival, which drew thousands of people to the riverside. It was celebrating the marriage of Shiva, and many pilgrims would visit and walk around the temples in Varanasi barefoot, giving money and rice to beggars who lined their route. We got caught up in this never ending stream of people, and managed to get to a distance to take a photo of the throng.

The steady stream of people arriving for the festival.

No blog post of ours would be complete without a mention of food, so we will briefly mention the best lassi we have ever had. The Blue lassi shop was tiny, with barely enough space for 10 chairs in, but the lassi was wonderful - it looked like a work of art, tasted heavenly and was possibly the most surreal place to drink in, as bodies were taken past the shop to the main cremation ghat along the very narrow street, with the relatives walking behind, chanting and throwing flowers onto the covered stretcher.

Tucking into our extraordinary lassi's!

It was a unique place. All of life and death takes place publicly on the banks of this revered river. There was always something new to see and a never ending cacophony of noise, bustle and worship. We were all incredibly glad that we managed to get here on our travels as it was such a fascinating place to experience.

Lighting candles on the banks on the Ganges as part of the Shiva festival.

After a fantastic few days here we set off on the last leg of our journey, back to Delhi for one more day before heading to the airport, and with mixed feelings boarding our plane back to the uk. It was the most amazing two months. We learnt so much about medicine, the world and ourselves, had our eyes opened, minds stretched and taste buds tantalised. We saw things we had only ever dreamed of, met amazing people along the way and by the end India felt like home. Thank you to everyone who has been following along and sharing in our adventure. It was lovely to be able to share our experiences with family and friends and we loved having you along for the journey!

Take care to all of you, and if you ever get the chance to go to India, grab it!

Lots of Love

Emma and Michaela