Tuesday, 4 February 2014

The One Where Emma and Michaela Eat Far Too Much Food...Again! (and some other tales)



 Hauz Khas and Dilli Haat

One late afternoon, after finishing up in the hospital, we set off on a long metro ride to Green Park. A very different Green Park to the one in London! After a mis-communication with a tuk-tuk driver, and a little bit of wandering later (are you spotting a theme here?!) we eventually found the park and wandered in. To our surprise, the first thing we found was a deer park, packed full of beautiful deer. There was no explanation anywhere about the park, and we wondered whether they had originally been introduced by the British and just ended up staying because people liked them! We also spotted some peacocks and of course, the ever present chipmunks! 
All the deer!


We had been promised by the guide book a huge monument which included a water tank housing a huge body of water. We thought that this shouldn't be hard to miss, but it eluded us and there were no signs to enlighten us! Eventually, by wandering through the Hauz Khas village - a complex of upmarket restaurants, bars and boutiques next to the park, we found another entrance and a complex of ruins awaiting us.
The water tank was much bigger than we were expecting and was really a giant reservoir. It had been built originally between 1296 and 1316 under the reign of Alauddin Khalji (Emma got quite excited as Aladdin is one of her favourite Disney films...) to collect water for use by the locals in the dry seasons. After his reign it dried up, but was rebuilt by Feroz Shah Tughlq who ruled just over thirty years later, and he also built a college and his own tomb on the site. These were the ruins surrounding the water tank that we could see today. Quite ironically, the college ruins were teeming with college aged people, with a couple in every archway, groups hanging out smoking and even two boys jamming on their guitars!
 
A couple in every arch
The huge water tank




From here we got slightly sidetracked by a tiny little shop selling handmade Indian clothes and did a little bit of shopping, before heading off in a tuk-tuk to Dilli Haat. 
Shiny new clothes
New outfit, including the most amazing trousers ever!



Dilli Haat is a village of traders selling their handmade crafts, which we happily wandered round admiring the colours, the craft and the culture on display here. The really brilliant thing about this place though was the food section. It was set up by the government of Delhi, and there were official food stalls from all the different states in India. An amazing way to sample food from places that you weren't going to get the chance to visit! You may recall that last week we ended up being bought lunch by some politicians from Manipur? Well, in their honour (and because the menu looked amazing), we ended up at the Manipur food stall. Manipur is very close to Tibet and China, and you could really tell from their food as it was a real mix of Chinese and Indian cuisine. We had a spring roll, which was like a Chinese spring roll but bigger and crunchier, and these parcels of goodness called Momos. They were dumplings stuffed with pork and spices and deep fried, served with a clear soup. In contrast to this very Chinese style food, we also had a thali selection of several different curries, rice and a poppadom! The blend of the two really worked, and we greatly enjoyed sampling their food!


 
Michaela with the giant spring roll
Fried pork momos - one of the tastiest things we've had so far!

 Sound and Lights at the Red Fort


As you may recall, we visited the Red Fort of Delhi on our first weekend here. We had been told though that it was really worth going back at night for one of the daily "Sound and Light" shows in the fort, and one night after work we decided to go. To be safe we don't tend to be out very late on our own in Delhi, but this night we managed to persuade two of our male Indian doctor friends to join us which was very useful - not only for being safe, but for navigating as well!After almost losing one of them in the metro, we found our way back to the red fort and paid the very small fee to get a ticket to the show. We took our seats in the middle of the complex, and waited in anticipation for the show to start. 


The show was a narration telling the history of the Red Fort, from its construction through the British rule and finally the British leaving the fort as India gained independence. Different voices playing parts in the theatrical tale, really brought the whole thing to life, and as stories were told, lights dramatically illuminated the buildings the tales were relating to. 
The audience watching the buildings magically light up one after another

Dramatic lighting at the Red Fort


We decided that the first Moghal Emperor to live in the Red Fort was a pretty amazing guy. He not only built the Red Fort, but also the Agra fort, the Jama Masjid, which is the biggest mosque in India, and the Taj Mahal amongst other buildings. He wanted to unite all religions and as such married women from Islam, Hinduism, Sikhism and Christianity and promoted peace. Sadly his sons were not like minded, and before their father was even dead, they fought between themselves to decide who would be Emperor. When one triumphed, he imprisoned his father and took the throne, inciting hatred between religions and causing conflict and bloodshed. His father eventually died a prisoner, aged 90, watching all the harmony he had built be destroyed. 

The Moghal Empire eventually ended of course when the British invaded and caused huge fighting and bloodshed before taking control of the Red Fort and using it for their own armies. They treated the previous inhabitants appallingly and generally were pretty awful. However, the story continued to tell the tale the fight for independence, and played actual recordings of Mahatma Ghandi and Nehru - the first prime minister of independent India. 

It was a very dramatic tale and a fantastic potted history of India, which we thoroughly enjoyed. 

Afterwards we set off to find some food and lead by our excellent guides, ended up in restaurant just south of the Red Fort. Once again, huge quantities of delicious food arrived including our first biryani in India (here, they often come served with a boiled egg!) and some incredible Naan bread. We were well and truly stuffed as we all boarded the metro back to the hospital! 
Michaela and George at dinner.

Emma and Prateek, stuffed after a delicious meal


 



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